Zardozi is the embroidery of Mughal courts — metal thread laid over padding and caught, stitch by stitch, on fabric stretched drum-tight across the adda frame. It is what gives bridal wear its weight and its glow. Turn real zardozi over and the back shows the karigar’s hand; machine versions are suspiciously perfect, and flat.
The process
- The frameFabric stretched drum-tight on the adda.
- TracingThe design pounced through paper in chalk.
- CouchingGold thread laid and caught over padding, sequin by sequin.
- FinishingEvery thread-end secured before the piece leaves the frame.
